How to look after your tent

Dr Tent says... Ah, but it does. While it’s up, your tent is under attack from all kinds of elements. It’s all about TLC - tent loving care. Of course, just like us humans, the older the tent the more TLC it will need.

Right, so I’ll buy a brand new tent. Shouldn’t need any treatment for a while...

Dr Tent says... Let’s start with tent fabrics. If the flysheet is polyester, it shouldn’t need any initial weathering – although it’s always a good idea to put up any brand new tent purchase somewhere local (your back garden, if it’s big enough) before you take it away camping for the first time. 

With a cotton or polycotton tent, what you really want is for it to get a good early dowsing, better still if you can get it through a few early wet and dry cycles. Ideally, leave it up for a few days so it can literally get acclimatised and its water repellent qualities can really kick in.

OK, so what should I use to clean my tent?

Dr Tent says... You won’t be surprised to hear, if you pack your tent away clean, next time you bring it out it will be... clean!

Use only what the doctor prescribes and always read the tent manufacturer’s information first. Alternatively, don’t be afraid to go back to your tent retailer for advice.

With mud, try the gentlest of scraping to get any excess off, then dabbing off as much as possible with a damp sponge.

Other stains won’t prove so easy. For example, bird droppings and sap from trees. Always, always use a proprietary tent cleaner – and in conjunction with the manufacturer’s instructions. Top names to look for are Granger’s, Nikwax and Storm.

What about the groundsheet?

Dr Tent says... Increasingly, there’s a trend towards sewn-in or zipped-in groundsheets, which makes it all the more tempting to pack your whole tent away as one. If that’s the case, try and ensure the dirtiest bit – ie the underside of the groundsheet – is facing outwards as you pack it up.

Again, it will last longer if you can keep cleaning it, as per the info above.

Any other packing tips?

Dr Tent says... Best advice is to pack all the key tent components separately, using the bags provided. That way, as well as less likelihood of any damage occurring in transit, it’s easy to tell everything – from flysheet to groundsheet to poles to pegs – is there for next time you want to use it.

What about packing up in the wet? Like I say, it’s the great outdoors...

Dr Tent says... Yes, there will be times when you have to pack your tent away when it’s not fully dry. The trick here is to unpack it again and get it out to dry fully just as soon as possible. You don’t want to get mildew.

What about taped or sealed seams? No need to worry there...?

Dr Tent says... Maybe not worry as much as just keep an eye on things. Taped seams are where waterproof tape is double-stitched between two lines of stitching on the tent’s main fabric. Sealed seams use a glue to bond tape where seams meet.

Chances are, if a tent’s going to leak it will be at the seams taped. Over longer periods, it’s not unusual for tape to come adrift. It’s actually relatively easy task to apply a proprietary seal seamer every now and then.

I’ve heard there’s a correct way to pack a tent. True?

Dr Tent says... Definitely. If wet, pack things away as loose as possible rather than using bags (it’s surprising how things can dry out even in the car journey home). When dry, try not to fold your tent in exactly the same places each time – you don’t want to make it a focal point for any wearing of the fabric; likewise, the windows can end up creasing and trapping moisture, which can lead to mildew forming.

Trapped air isn’t good for any of us. Same with our tents. It might not make you look good, but rolling on your tent before you pack it away is the most effective way of getting any trapped air out of it.

While I remember also, neatly tying up the guylines – known as hanking – will prevent you getting into all kinds of unwanted knots and tangles next time you take your tent out.

Great. Pack it all up and leave it until next time, then?

Dr Tent says... Not quite. If your tent is being put away for long periods, the ideal storage is loose rather than packed tightly. Great if you’ve got a vermin-free, dry location you can keep it, where the fabric and poles/pegs can be kept apart.

STORM - PROOF POSITIVE

When's the best time to waterproof my tent, and why?

Look for when the rain starts to darken the flysheet, as an indication that its water-repellent qualities are nearing the end of their serviceable life and could do with a top-up.

 In ideal time to reproof is towards the end of the summer months for two reasons:

1. The weather has started to change and you may experience more rain during your autumn camping
2. For winter stowing, a dry fabric and reduces the chance of mildew.

Which product should I use?

In production most synthetic tents are treated with a non-silicone solvent-based product with cotton and canvas tents using a water-based product. Think about using a similar product for your aftercare. Also, check any labels, or go back to your retailer for advice if you’re unsure.

Our tent's only a year old. Does it really need reproofing?

Most modern tents manufactured from polyester or nylon have a PU (polyurethane) coating on the inside of the fabric which is the waterproof layer (it’s also the layer that is the main cause of condensation). As long as this layer is undamaged then the likelihood is that your tent will be resistant to rain penetration to the level specified.

The original quality and grade is also a key factor.

We also have a ten-year-old tent up in the loft. Is it worth dragging it out and getting it sorted?

If the fabric of the tent is in good order, with no damage from UV exposure, then it is worth at least pitching it in the garden to ensure that you have all the bits and nothing else is damaged.

But, one thing that should be looked at it is a reproof of the flysheet.

How long does it take to reproof a tent? What are the best conditions etc?

The best time to reproof your tent is on a warm dry day, without too much strong sun. Too much wind could also cause issues.

Ideally, only work on the amount of the tent that you can proof and dry at a time.

There are two main types of proofer: water-based and solvent-based. Solvent products dry quicker – from just a few minutes for a fluoropolymer product such as Storm Brush-on Proofer, to a couple of hours for a silicone product.

A water-based product requires the water to evaporate, so can take a rather long time; but, it is easier to use, with less “product cautions”.

For more Storm info visit stormwaterproofing.com or call 01773 521309

Read more handy maintenance guides by clicking here.