Salisbury surprises

ENORMOUS oak beams salvaged from early sailing vessels are the mainstay of its structure; a tunnel was built between this building and the cathedral to hide the brothel function of the building…the fascinating Haunch of Venison is thought to be the oldest hostelry in Salisbury.

Today it is a restaurant, one of many outstanding timbered buildings that characterise Salisbury.

And its shady past makes its contribution to the town’s amazing tapestry of history that draws the visitor. In short, it’s one of Salisbury’s surprises.

It doesn’t matter where you start exploring half-timbered medieval Salisbury – we started at the Haunch of Venison simply because the building caught our eyes as we walked towards the city centre.

The Haunch of Venison, which dates to 1320, is in Minster Street, a stone’s throw from the great cathedral spire that gives this city its fame as it is the tallest in England.

Tales of ghosts abound; believe or reject them, they do serve the purpose of shrowding this delightful pub and eaterie in mystery.

And that tunnel? Why? Because the connection between the Haunch of Venison and Salisbury’s most famous building was that the inn was used to accommodate the craftsmen that created the spire that is the very symbol of the town.

The Haunch of Venison

Salisbury is a charming character city of quaint ancient buildings that integrate easily with its present-day high-street shops.

Its ancient marketplace still flourishes – today there’s a farmers’ market held
twice a week. Streets named Fish Row and Butcher Lane perpetuate the city’s trading past.

Salisbury, now complete with four park-and-ride facilities one of which can accommodate motorhomes, is a great place to shop, to eat (there’s a good choice of eateries of all sorts), to just walk, browsing the historic buildings and cathedral.

But it’s in the run-up to Christmas that this city has special appeal. Whereas most towns string up an assortment of coloured lights and Christmas trees, Salisbury exhibits rather elaborate glittery displays.

The result is the creation of a special city in which to do your Christmas shopping. It’s a relaxed city, too – plenty of retail choice but less of the hustle and bustle of a larger city.

The city on the edge of Salisbury Plain is often overshadowed in tourist terms by its more famous neighbour, the megalithic monument of Stonehenge. But there’s a lot else to interest visitors around here.

Salisbury is at the confluence of five rivers: the Nadder, Ebble, Wylye and Bourne are tributaries of the Avon (that, incidentally, is the Celtic word for river), which reaches the sea at Christchurch in Dorset. It is this ample supply of water that led to the establishment of a settlement here in the Iron Age.

The Romans came here, and called it Sorviodunum. The Normans called it Searesbyrig, or Seresberi. By 1086 it had become Salesberie, as it is recorded in the Domesday Book.

It has, thus, long been a trading centre for the surrounding agricultural lands. Markets have been held here since 1227 and today take place on Tuesdays and Saturdays.

In the 15th century the city’s market place exhibited several stone crosses, each one marking the sites for display of different categories of goods. Only the poultry cross still stands.

The market square is today a delightful backwater, away from the modern shopping areas of The Old George Mall, The Maltings, and Winchester Street.

It has a continental approach to the business of catering for its populace and its visitors – it’s fringed by several cafes that, even in winter, open onto pavement terraces.

On the early December 2006 day we set out to gather this information and explore Salisbury at its pre-Christmas best for you, we perched for coffee and a snack at the corner of the market square, a patio heater providing all the warmth we needed on a mild day.

It’s quiet and relaxing – yet at the same time has a lively image. It’s that combination of tranquility and activity that is the great appeal of this city – and ranks as another of its surprises.

But it’s the cathedral that dominates the city.

Salisbury Cathedral has several claims to fame: Apart from having the tallest spire in Britain, at 404 feet, it has the country’s largest cathedral close.

The cathedral also houses what is rated as the best preserved of the only four remaining copies of the 1215 Magna Carta. You’ll find this in the Chapter House.

Originally built in the mid 13th century, it’s now undergoing some major restoration – a project that will take five to six years.

The largest spire in England

Feeling in need of exercise? You can take a tour of the tower. You’ll need to be energetic for this one as it takes you up the 332 steps to the base of the spire.

Personally I’ll go for a coffee at the cathedral restaurant instead, and write these tour notes for you. (By the way, the spire has a bit of a lean to it but it’s less than 2ft, and I can’t see it).

If it’s a bit damp outside you could always go into the cathedral check to see if the claim that it has 365 windows, and 8760 (the number of hours in a year) marble pillars is correct. It also has the oldest working clock in Europe. You’ll find it in the north nave isle.

Salisbury Cathedral has seen a lot of history and not all of it peaceful. As you leave and walk back towards the city centre there is a stone on display that marks the spot where three Protestants were martyred by burning at the stake. Another of Salisbury’s surprises.

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