24/06/2014
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Motorhome travel: Scottish Islands

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Island hopping; it sounds glamorous, doesn’t it?

For me, it conjures up images of a luxury yacht and a glass of Champagne somewhere in the Mediterranean. In reality, my experience of island hopping is a lot less exotic. It involves CalMac ferries, a warming cup of hot chocolate in the boat’s café and a waterproof jacket.

That’s not to say the Scottish islands are always cold and wet. On the contrary, my last visit to the south Hebridean islands of Arran and Islay was a typical combination of beautiful, sunny days, one dismal 24-hour period and a couple of days of wild seas, squally showers and brilliant rainbows.



Armed with a Caledonian MacBrayne Hopscotch ticket, we crossed from Ardrossan to Brodick, the main ferry terminal on Arran. Squatting at the base of Goat Fell, the island’s highest mountain, Brodick’s a popular little place, heaving with tourists in the summer. With Brodick Castle and Gardens nearby, several picturesque coastal villages a short drive away and the potential for a boat trip across to tiny Holy Island, this eastern side of Arran sees more visitors than the less populated west in summer. So, needless to say, as soon as we got off the ferry, we headed west...

 

From Blackwaterfoot in the south to beautiful Lochranza in the north, reaching the attractions on the west coast requires that little bit more effort. One of the highlights has to be King’s Cave, the centre-piece of a three-mile trail from the Forestry Commission car park at Torr Righ (don’t forget to take a torch). This sandstone ‘cave’ is actually a series of caves created by the power of the ocean, but now left high and dry on a raised beach some metres above the present-day sea level. So-called because Robert The Bruce is thought to have taken refuge here in the early part of the fourteenth century, the walls of King’s Cave are covered in carvings, including Ogham inscriptions, a deer and a large cross. Some are thought to date back to early Christian times, but the meanings mostly remain a mystery.
Less than a mile north along the A841 are the even more enigmatic prehistoric monuments of Machrie Moor. A waymarked path across the moody moorland leads past hut circles, field systems and, most impressive of all, a set of six stone circles. Estimated to be about 4,000 years old, they are thought to have been used for religious and ceremonial activities, as well as for later burials. Standing beside the towering red sandstone uprights and looking out across the sea to the misty hills of the Kintyre peninsula, it’s easy to imagine Bronze Age people being entranced by this magnificent landscape.

For much of our time on Arran we stayed in Lochranza, a small village on the island’s northern tip. With the slopes of the surrounding hills coming almost right down to the water’s edge, the few buildings here are

 squeezed onto narrow strips of land on either side of a calm harbour. It’s an atmospheric, peaceful place, given added character by the castle ruins at the back of the bay.
Day visitors come for tours of Arran’s only distillery or simply to enjoy the scenery. The tiny ferry across the Kilbrannan
 Sound creates some through traffic, otherwise there’s not much going on here – no general store, no Post Office, no petrol station. The tranquillity is occasionally shattered as one of the valley’s resident golden eagles comes swooping down, causing a flurry of excitement, but you’ll quickly get used to the other wildlife, including red squirrels, seals, otters, herons, gannets, porpoises and even the occasional basking shark.

Within 15 minutes of arriving on the campsite, while taking our dog, Jess, for a quick stretch of her little legs, I discovered that the golf course next door is a favourite haunt of the local red deer. I counted 20 in total, including an older stag sporting a fine set of antlers. Jess, absorbed in her own little terrier world, had her nose close to the ground, following a scent, and didn’t notice these graceful beasts grazing 50 yards or so from our path.

This is an extract from a longer article in Summer 2014 MMM magazine. To order your copy, click here.

 

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